Several buses and many winding roads have provided passage through these volcanic mountains. The altitude has increased again, calling for a rematch. Being the only person not wearing sunglasses in this intense glare, I think I seared one side of my cortex. Ten Peruvian soles later, I had some eye protection. After a recovery nap and a dip in a hot springs, I was good to go.
Another morning in a another town ready for another drive. This time the destination was Colca Canyon - a split in the Earth over twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. A walking path trailed along the edge to many lookout points. We were here to spot condors, although the scenery spoke very well for itself. We took our time, but the birds took longer, so we started to make our way along the path to where the rest of the tourists stood.
The first birds we saw were far away, soaring in the distance. They disappeared and we walked a bit more.
Andean condors are big. They are the heaviest flying birds in the world. Due to the ridges of the canyon, the next condor was able to suddenly appear nearby. On the lift of a thermal updraft, it effortlessly floated from below to above with its wing spread and then cruised past. Soon after, another did the same.
We had just taken the first few steps of leaving this place when one of the creautures silently rose up from the canyon and hovered over the group. As it was happening, my hand went to the pocket that held my phone camera. I needed to make a quick decision between playing with my zoom settings to possibly get a pic, or just taking in the rare experience of having a bird make humans feel small. I chose option 2. It was awesome.
In the town of Arequipa, it's difficult to spot the car that isn't a taxi. They love their car horns too and press them as much as the accelerator. Some have their horns modified to sound like car alarms. It's delightful music at night.
One of the attractions that puts this place on the tourist's map is "Juanita" - the Inca Ice Maiden. She is a well-preserved sacrifice discovered at the top of a volcano in 1995. Apart from being dead and frozen, she's in mint condition.
A few of us visited the museum where she is on display behind temperature-controlled and bullet-proof glass. Photography was once again prohibited and the guided tour was preceeded by a short video. This had footage from the expedition that led to her discovery. There was a different flavour to this hurried archaeological dig as a volcano plumed smoke nearby. The video also showed a reenactment of how she would have climbed the volcano with a entourage of ceremonial murderers for the honour of being received by the gods.
The pamphlet states she was "put to sleep before a precise blow on her right eyebrow". I think that slightly sugar-coats the ritual that ended with her hammer smashed face.
Just as 'cool', but only on display via enlarged photographs, was a boy sacrifice also left at the volcano top. He was charred black after death from being struck several times by lightning. This was the intent (only male sacrifices were adorned in metal) as thunderbolts were the hands of the gods touching a well-received offering. Fried crispy.
I've now travelled through a sandstorm and an apparently rare hail storm to arrive in the small town of Puno, on the shore of Lake Titicaca.
Another morning in a another town ready for another drive. This time the destination was Colca Canyon - a split in the Earth over twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. A walking path trailed along the edge to many lookout points. We were here to spot condors, although the scenery spoke very well for itself. We took our time, but the birds took longer, so we started to make our way along the path to where the rest of the tourists stood.
The first birds we saw were far away, soaring in the distance. They disappeared and we walked a bit more.
Andean condors are big. They are the heaviest flying birds in the world. Due to the ridges of the canyon, the next condor was able to suddenly appear nearby. On the lift of a thermal updraft, it effortlessly floated from below to above with its wing spread and then cruised past. Soon after, another did the same.
We had just taken the first few steps of leaving this place when one of the creautures silently rose up from the canyon and hovered over the group. As it was happening, my hand went to the pocket that held my phone camera. I needed to make a quick decision between playing with my zoom settings to possibly get a pic, or just taking in the rare experience of having a bird make humans feel small. I chose option 2. It was awesome.
In the town of Arequipa, it's difficult to spot the car that isn't a taxi. They love their car horns too and press them as much as the accelerator. Some have their horns modified to sound like car alarms. It's delightful music at night.
One of the attractions that puts this place on the tourist's map is "Juanita" - the Inca Ice Maiden. She is a well-preserved sacrifice discovered at the top of a volcano in 1995. Apart from being dead and frozen, she's in mint condition.
A few of us visited the museum where she is on display behind temperature-controlled and bullet-proof glass. Photography was once again prohibited and the guided tour was preceeded by a short video. This had footage from the expedition that led to her discovery. There was a different flavour to this hurried archaeological dig as a volcano plumed smoke nearby. The video also showed a reenactment of how she would have climbed the volcano with a entourage of ceremonial murderers for the honour of being received by the gods.
The pamphlet states she was "put to sleep before a precise blow on her right eyebrow". I think that slightly sugar-coats the ritual that ended with her hammer smashed face.
Just as 'cool', but only on display via enlarged photographs, was a boy sacrifice also left at the volcano top. He was charred black after death from being struck several times by lightning. This was the intent (only male sacrifices were adorned in metal) as thunderbolts were the hands of the gods touching a well-received offering. Fried crispy.
I've now travelled through a sandstorm and an apparently rare hail storm to arrive in the small town of Puno, on the shore of Lake Titicaca.
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